Jaipur : Amalgamation of literature and history - Purva Damle

Jaipur Unadkya

Jaipur Unadkya
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Rising from the ashes! 2019 - this year will be full of travel and stories. What better place to start it than in Jaipur, one of the most elegant and full of life city. I’m glad that I stepped out of my comfort zone in Maharashtra and travelled to Rajasthan, a state that I never get bored of visiting.

I had visited the ‘Kala Ghoda festival’ in Mumbai and was curious to know more about other literature festivals. While having a casual conversation with my cousin, Tanvi, she mentioned going to the Jaipur Literature Festival. On the spur of the moment, I decided I wanted in as well. She was equally excited to chalk out a plan along with me.

Booked well in advance. Our excitement knew no bounds. We were travelling for the first time with each other and were behaving like teenagers.

I am well acquainted with the city, but, there is always more to Rajasthan. As someone who loves to photograph architecture, streets and colour, this place is undoubtedly one of my favourites. I was carrying my camera kit, but I knew my Xiaomi Yi action camera and One plus 6 Mobile phone were going to be the lead players.

The early morning “pink” cloak that you see on the Pink City is unique and is achieved because of the golden morning light, that Rajasthan is blessed with, falling on the sandstone structures.

Early morning my dear friend, Shreyas, came to drop us (willingly!?)to the Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Domestic Airport, Mumbai.

Just before getting into the bus, I was so excited that I had to click a selfie, even though we looked sleepy.

Sleepy morning, the willingness to visit Jaipur literature festival and visiting the forts of Jaipur, we were thrilled.

Sunrise from the plane and as we were landing in Jaipur we realised that it was cloudy, we spoke about global warming till we reached Zostel. The driver chipped in too expressing that it rained for two days. It was unusually cold this time of the year and to top it off, the rains.

We reached our hostel, ZOSTEL! Shout out to the Zostel Jaipur team for the warm welcome. We were more than happy to finally have made it and hit our bunk beds.

We settled in our bunk beds. The blankets became our best friends. As the day progressed, our stomachs grumbled and asked us to fill them. Many things bundled up in our minds and energies were elevated. The hustle bustle at the hostel increased. A coffee was on my mind, but when in Jaipur, do as the Rajasthanis do! Armed with cups of piping hot masala chai, we checked the literature festival’s time — table.

Stepped out of the hostel, to explore. For the first two days we used cabs and then we used the local transport, rickshaws and tongas. They were joyful rides. Local transport is one of the best ways to perceiving the spirit of the city.

the literature festival was full of colours with the zest of youngsters. The first day we needed an hour to settle into the chaos, the crowd was a definately a surprise.

We looked for a food court, a beer, coffee and two wholesome chicken sandwiches were ordered.

We missed a session as there was a last minute change in the line up. Then the only choice was to explore the venue, the corners, decorations of the festival and the hall chandeliers of Diggi Palace were stunning.

The sky had turned dark and we reached our home well in time. I wondered, how school text books listed Rajasthan state as one of the states that received least amount of rainfall. To be faced by a lashing downpour, I questioned my text book’s words. Global Warming, is serious!

I bought myself a green tea and cuddled up in a corner and started reading. The rains had no intensions off slowing themselves down. The activities in the common area increased too. Playing cards, jamming sessions and painting too. I painted and the evening went by.

Walking around in the hostel lazily, the wall art intrigued me. The walls of Jaipur Zostel showcased the essence of the place. My favourite was the elephant besides the dining area. The breakfast spread was typically an English one, since there were travelers from all over the globe. Had our share of breakfast, got ourselves ready for another funfilled day at the festival.

We were going to experience the readings of a great poet, lyricist and a film maker, Gulzar.

Gulzar Saheb, such a niche and a stylish personality. His aura is unexplainable. Such simplicity yet royal. Humour with a sense of logic. Apt words. A carefree soul.

His hour at the festival was the seasoning of the whole festival.

Understanding of words were never so profound. To top it all he also explained a few ‘Urdu’ words and their use. Answered questions so empathetically and with humour. It melted me. The trip’s solo reason was achieved.

Javed Akhtar and Shabana Azmi, two of the most funniest (आप बड़े मज़ाकियाँ हो) people I have come across, lately. They are not the atypical, artsy or deeply in thoughts kind of poets. Extremely outspoken, strategic and individual of clear mindsets. Open to change. They are deep thinkers but are also equally out there and open to indulge in all kind of topics. Experienced and learned individuals. Witty and a smart poet, Javed ji is. Shabana Azmi was sharing personal experiences and not having any celebrity glitches. Such rare qualities and to acquire knowledge from them was indeed a delight. The jam packed performances from them was phenomenal.

Overwhelmed with the experiences.

I would be genuinely grateful to Tanvi, for having my back and being a great company for this vacay!

The day at the festival ended with all चमकीले feels and left the venue in a rickshaw for our home. A man from a car besides us, asked a basic traffic question to our rickshaw guy. The person in the car was using a smart phone. We both were yet processing Gulzar Saheb’s and Javed Akhtar’s words and Yaseen (rickshaw driver) amazed us, with his intellect.

He commented,”स्मार्ट मोबाइल के साथ थोड़ा दिमाग भी यूज़ किया करो!” (With the use of smart phones, use your brains too!) We burst out laughing. It became the dialogue of the trip. I had by far thoroughly enjoyed this day. and didn’t even realise that, we had already arrived at Zostel. While Tanvi worked, I curled up in the warm blanket and slept off. What an intellectual day! If that wasn’t enough, we decided to head out on to the city roads, walking.

Hawa Mahal was just a kilometer away. Late evening, chilly weather and lights on the Mahal was so breathtaking. The Tattoo cafe and lounge was across the Mahal, climbing up was like a mini trek. It was a four storied building with high stairs. It got more windy and colder as we climbed up. The hands and feet were numb.

I had a concept in my mind for a photograph of the Hawa Mahal. While making it, I spent about half an hour. We ordered dinner had a mindful chat. Also updated our family and friends about the trip. A day worth remembering!

City Palace is being the center stage of Jaipur, we started are day by visiting the palace. jantar Mantar is across the palace and we both had visited it, instead we decided to spend more time in the palace. City Palace is a dear place but I haven’t yet visited the most enchanting part of it. One day, I shall. City palace has the oh so evergreen colours, architecture and a sense of calmness. It replicates how grand Indian history would have been.

Had heard praises about the peacock door. I had to photograph it as I had also finished reading ‘The palace of Illusions’. The book that inspired me to read. I couldn’t stop myself from admiring the door. Such intricate work everywhere.

We toured the palace relaxed for a while and bid adieu to it and headed for the festival. We attended a book launch, named ‘The Changemakers’. Where successful women from the film industry were celebrated. A few of them were on the panel to talk about the situation of the women in the industry and they also spoke about the #metoo movement which had just taken off massively.

These were women from different department of the film industry and mind you they were all HODs. It was so enduring to listen to the experiences of these women. Sometimes, it’s hard to let go, one of it is the experience which I have as an AD. The film sets are dreams that are transforming into reality. Whatever, it is shooting scenes are missed and this is how I stay connected to the industry.

Listening to Guneet Monga (The producer), Priya Seth (Cinematographer), Gayatri Rangachari Shah (author of The Changemaker) and Geeta Tandon (Stunt specialist), I was nostalgic and overwhelmed. Hats off to these courageous women who hustled hustled hustled and made to where they are today. So proud of them. Attending this session was like a mirror. Everything reflected back and all the situations stood in front of me like they took place all yesterday.

Greeting them and asking for a selfie is real, people! The insights in simple things that try and help us women fit in the male dominant industry is a must know how. I am so glad to have been a part of this talk. The vibe in the hall was highly positive and welcoming.

A short while ago, Jaipur sprung up with a new modern monument. It is constructed in one of the largest road circles in India. The ‘पत्रिका gate’. I knew about it and had imagined photographing it. I didn’t believe in it’s greatness until I witnessed it. A stratigically placed architecture.

While we were leaving, I wished for the perfect golden evening light. We were fortunate enough to have clear skies. Ah! and the beautiful windy evening. Huge garden, kids skating, boys photographing with a DSLR which in turn are going to be their facebook/instagram display photographs.

Our minds were so calm, we decided to spend the entire evening in the garden. Spent a couple of hours, talking about our childhoods and just taking in the vibe around.

The पत्रिका gate is colourful, humongous and very royal. The colours, the patterns and the best part of it was the painting, the art done on it, it had historical mentions. The drawings, the paintings, the cut outs were all made of paper. Hence, the name पत्रिका gate. (paper/ magazine).

Day ended with the majestical light. While we headed back to our home, in the cab we ordered for dinner. Oh, and we used to order food online from the Zomato app., except breakfasts and evening snacks. Charcoal eats is fabulous. Exploring food of Rajasthan still remains on the list.

Parathas always pleasantly surprised us! The yummy chole and the Dahi was purrrfeecctt!

While we gulped all of it, we booked a cab paid the hotel bill and off we were to Nahargarh.

Appreciating architecture here people! The corners, the doors, the gates, the windows are all kept well. Hopefully with UNESCO stepping in, the city would reach even more heights of nature friendly development and keeping the historical sights even more well intact.

With the perfect blues and the blissful light on the buildings, the city glows. Jaipur is one of the best examples of perfect amalgamation of modernization and historical traditions.

Jaipur is will be incomplete, if one doesn’t visit the forts. The three forts Jaigarh, Nahargarh and Amber Fort are magnificant forts. Amber fort, is true love. Nahargarh is no less. Icy cold marble floors and intricate work all over the fort. Blue sky and golden morning light. Timing!

For fresco purposes and keeping the fort undamaged, various companies like, INOX, TATA, etc. have invested in the heritage. Various modern installations have been installed by new age architects. There is a story with every fitting that, has been explained, by the architect and in the honour of the research there are narratives put up.

There were six different rooms for the king’s queens. They are all connected from the terraces. What must have been the thought of the king to get such an architecture made during that era. There was privacy, yet they could come together.

While we sat in the shades of these miraculous trees, I wondered, how people then, managed to travel and fight wars. It remains a question, since I understood about wars, dynasties, kings and kingdoms. Resting in the shade we then got back to Zostel. We were tired and the best way to reboot was to doze off.

Spending, four days without a decent coffee, is not a good feeling. I needed coffee and that was about it. Thanks to Zomato and Google that we finally found an age old coffee house in the pink city.

After a couple of coffees, we had a nice breezy tonga ride back home.

I wish I could upload the video here. But, never the less here’s a photograph.

Waking up early, the driver arriving on time, was a good sign. We hoped for less traffic and early visit to the destination with less tourists. At the petrol station, there was a sign board which said Delhi and Sawaimadhopur (urf Ranthambore). Oh! how I wish I could extend my stay!

A good two hours spent photographing and reading about the step well. We were hungry! To eat at the ‘ढाबा’ was on our mind. I was looked down upon knowing that I don’t appreciate ‘chai’. I did have chai because the weather was enough to tempt me. And I was happily humming एक गरम चाय की प्याली हो| (Let there be a hot cup of tea.)

When one is hungry, food is God! The food at the ढाबा was brilliantly cooked. The parathas that landed in our plates with the ‘dahi’ (Yogurt) and a side dish of अचार (pickle) was the best thing that happened to us after being at the Chand Baori.

I am thanking our hyper active driver for voluntarily waiting and making us drink chai and bask in the glory of Jaipur mornings and ranting about Cow milk. He was so proud that we Southerners cannot have real Cow milk. Well we might not be able to get it here (in the south) but it’s not that we cannot drink. But then, I murmurred, Madam! चाय पी लो! (Drink the tea!)

The fields alongside the highway reminded us of ‘Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge’ and ‘Udta Punjab’.

Reaching back to Zostel we packed up and headed out for one last time for the last minute, shopping. Picked up a few souvenirs and wrapped up for the day.

NOTE :

COVID-19 Related Government Imposed Restrictions Prevail At A Few Locations.
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